Somapura Mahavihara in Paharpur, Badalgachhi
Upazila, Naogaon District, Bangladesh is among the best known Buddhist viharas
in the Indian Subcontinent and is one of the most important archaeological
sites in the country. It was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in
1985. It dates from a similar time period to the nearby Halud Vihara and to the
Sitakot Vihara in Nawabganj Upazila of Dinajpur District.
History
A number of monasteries grew up during
the Pāla period in ancient Bengal and Magadha. According to Tibetan sources,
five great Mahaviharas stood out: Vikramashila,
the premier university of the era; Nalanda,
past its prime but still illustrious; Somapura Mahavihara; Odantapurā;
and Jaggadala.
The monasteries formed a network; "all of them were under state
supervision" and there existed "a system of co-ordination among them
... it seems from the evidence that the different seats of Buddhist learning
that functioned in eastern India under the Pāla were regarded together as
forming a network, an interlinked group of institutions," and it was
common for great scholars to move easily from position to position among them.
The excavation at Paharpur, and the
finding of seals bearing the inscription Shri-Somapure-Shri-Dharmapaladeva-Mahavihariyarya-bhiksu-sangghasya,
has identified the Somapura Mahavihara as built by the second Pala king Dharmapala (circa
781–821) of Pāla Dynasty. Tibetan sources, including
Tibetan translations of Dharmakayavidhi and Madhyamaka Ratnapradipa,
Taranatha's
history and Pag-Sam-Jon-Zang, mention that Dharmapala's successor Devapala (circa
810–850) built it after his conquest of Varendra.
The Paharpur pillar inscription bears the mention of 5th regnal year of
Devapala's successor Mahendrapala (circa
850–854) along with the name of Bhiksu Ajayagarbha. Taranatha's Pag Sam Jon
Zang records that the monastery was repaired during the reign of Mahipala
(circa 995–1043 AD).
The Nalanda inscription of
Vipulashrimitra records that the monastery was destroyed by fire, which also
killed Vipulashrimitra's ancestor Karunashrimitra, during a conquest by the Vanga
army in the 11th century.
Over time Atish's spiritual preceptor,
Ratnakara Shanti, served as a sthavira
of the vihara, Mahapanditacharya Bodhibhadra served as a resident monk, and
other scholars spent part of their lives at the monastery, including
Kalamahapada, Viryendra and Karunashrimitra. Many Tibetan monks visited the
Somapura between the 9th and 12th centuries.
During the rule of the Sena dynasty, known as Karnatadeshatagata Brahmaksatriya, in
the second half of the 12th century the vihara started to decline for the last
time. One scholar writes, "The ruins of the temple and monasteries at
Pāhāpur do not bear any evident marks of large-scale destruction. The downfall
of the establishment, by desertion or destruction, must have been sometime in
the midst of the widespread unrest and displacement of population consequent on
the Muslim invasion." A copperplate dated to 159 Gupta Era
(479 AD) discovered in 1927 in the northeast corner of the monastery, mentions
donation of a Brahmin couple to Jain Acharya Guhanandi of Pancha-stupa Nikaya at Vata Gohli, identifiable as the neighbouring village
of Goalapara.
Architecture
The quadrangular structure consists of
177 cells and a traditional Buddhist stupa in the centre. The rooms
were used
by the monks for accommodation and meditation. In addition to the large number
of stupas and shrines of various sizes and shapes, terracotta plaques, stone
sculptures, inscriptions, coins, ceramics etc. have been discovered.
The site houses the architectural
remains of a vast Buddhist monastery, Somapura Mahavihara, covering 27 acres
(11 ha). It was an important intellectual centre for Dharmic Traditions such as Buddhists (Buddha Dharma), Jains
(Jaina Dharma) and Hindus (Sanatana Dharma) alike. The 21 acre
(85,000 m²) complex has 177 cells, viharas,
numerous stupas, temples and a number of other ancillary buildings. The outside
walls with ornamental terracotta palques still display the influence of these
three religions.
In acreage, Somapura was the largest
of the mahaviharas. Its architecture was unusual. As one scholar described, the
complex was dominated by a temple, which was not typical, and further, the
temple had "none of the characteristic features of Indian temple
architecture, but is strongly reminiscent of Buddhist temples of Burma, Java
and Cambodia, reproducing the cruciform basement, terraced structure with inset
chambers and gradually dwindling pyramid form ... during the age of the Palas
some sort of intercourse between eastern India and south-east Asia existed ...
but how this temple type, represented in India by this solitary example, became
the standard of Buddhist temple architecture is not known." Another
commented, "there can be no doubt that this style of architecture has most
profoundly influenced that of Burma, Java and Cambodia. The nearest
approximation to the plan and the superstructure of the Paharpur temple is
afforded by the temples known as Chandi Loro Jongrang and Chandi Sevu of Prambanam
in Central Java." Central temple
The purpose of this central structure
at the midst of the courtyard remains unsolved since its discovery.
Hence, most
of the debates generated hitherto on the architecture of Sompur Mahavihara are
cantered on the identification its missing superstructure. The reason may be
manifold, but the most important one is the non-availability of substantial
amount of first-hand resource including a comprehensive architectural
documentation at the disposal of the researchers. There are different arguments
regarding the terminating top of the central structure of Sompur Mahavihara.
Hence, most
of the debates generated hitherto on the architecture of Sompur Mahavihara are
cantered on the identification its missing superstructure. The reason may be
manifold, but the most important one is the non-availability of substantial
amount of first-hand resource including a comprehensive architectural
documentation at the disposal of the researchers. There are different arguments
regarding the terminating top of the central structure of Sompur Mahavihara. 
Consequently, most of works done so
far are mainly based on the findings of the archaeological excavation and
studying the artefacts from the archaeological perspective. The first study on
this monument with documentation was by archaeologist K.N. Dikhist in his Paharpur,
Memoirs of Archaeological Survey in India (1938). Dikhsit was concerned
with documentation of the archaeological findings and concentrated on their
interpretation and analysis. He attempted to suggest a probable architectural
treatment of the missing parts of the structure through studying the
archaeological remains. Till today, this study is considered as the most
authentic record of the Sompur Mahavihara.
Prudence R. Myer published the first
of such studies in 1969 as a journal paper, in which he proposed the missing
superstructure as a stupa and illustrated the possible three-dimensional
articulations. Myer embarked on his proposal through a diachronic study of the
stupa and stupa shrines in India. He took Sompur Mahavihara as an example to
elaborate his study and did a conjectural restoration of the central structure
in support of his analysis.
The second work was published around
thirty years after Myer's proposition. A team of
architects
from Khulna University led by Mohammed Ali Naqi has proposed another
theoretical reconstruction of the central structure as well as some parts of
the peripheral block (mainly the entrance hall) in 1999. This work was also
presented in the "International Seminar on Elaboration of an
Archaeological Research Strategy for Paharpur World Heritage Site and Its
Environment" jointly organised by UNESCO and Department of Archaeology of
Bangladesh in 2004. Muhammad Ali Naqi proposed a temple-like spire at the top
by considering the central mound as a 'Stupa-Shrine' with a 'Shikhara' type
stupa in his reconstruction.
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Nameable statues found
The statues are reserved in the adjacent museum for
display. Some nameable statues are:
- 'Chamunda' Statue of Clay Stone
- Standing 'Seetala' Statue of Red Stone
- Broken Parts of 'Visnu' Statue of Krishna Stone
- 'Keerti' Statue of Clay Stone
- Damaged 'Haargouri' Statue
- Broken Statue of Laxmi Narayan of Krishna Stone
- 'Uma' Statue of krishna Stone
- 'Gouri' Statue of Clay Stone
- 'Visnu' Statue of Clay Stone
- Nandi Statue
- 'Visnu' Statue of Krishna Stone
- Sun Statue
- 'Mansha' Statue of Clay Stone
A few metal images have been found. An
image of Hara-Gouri, a standing naked Jaina and the bronze figures of Kubera
and Ganesha were discovered at Paharpur from pre-Bangladesh period excavations.
During post-liberation excavation (1981–82 precisely) the torso of a large and
important bronze Buddha image was found.
Protection
Somapura was designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in 1985.
Since then, a series of UNESCO missions has regularly visited the
site and helped with the project. Moreover, the UN body prepared a master plan,
involving US$5.6 million.
The terracotta
artworks in the site have suffered from serious damage as a result of
"lack of proper maintenance, shortage of manpower, fund constraint and
heavy rainfall And the major problem is the corruption of Bangladesh." Furthermore, poor water drainage accompanied by
high levels of salinity in the soils has contributed to decay the terracotta
sculptures. Other threats include uncontrolled vegetation, vandalism, climate
conditions, and public trespassing and encroachment.
